What hatsumode actually is
Hatsumode (初詣) is the first shrine or temple visit of the New Year — and in Japan, it’s enormous. When the National Police Agency last published a national count (2009), it came to roughly 100 million shrine and temple visits in the first three days of January. Some people dress up, and you’ll see some kimono. Children come with parents and grandparents. Couples meet there on dates. Everyone prays for health, happiness, safe travels, good grades, love, or whatever else the new year might hold.
If you’re in Japan in early January, hatsumode is one of the most beautiful things you can witness. The air is cold, the shrines are decorated with pine and bamboo New Year arrangements (kadomatsu), yatai food stalls line the approach paths, and everywhere there’s the sound of clapping hands, ringing shrine bells, and cheerful chatter. It has the feel of a national festival because that’s essentially what it is.
The good news for visitors: hatsumode is welcoming. You don’t need to be Shinto or Buddhist or anything at all. The rituals are simple once you know the sequence, and nobody minds if a tourist joins in respectfully. The only thing that turns an awkward hatsumode into a meaningful one is knowing the basic flow: purify at the temizuya, offer at the saisen-bako, pray with the bow-clap-bow sequence, and maybe draw an omikuji on the way out.
Short version: wash your hands, toss a 5 yen coin, bow twice, clap twice, make your wish, bow once more.
A few “nice to know” extras
- 100 million visits in three days — The last National Police Agency count (2009) put it at around 100 million shrine and temple visits over January 1st–3rd (aggregate visits, not unique individuals — many people visit more than one). In a 2019 ranking, Meiji Shrine drew around 3 million visitors over the first three days, the most of any shrine or temple in the country.
- The famous top three — Meiji Shrine (Tokyo) and two Buddhist temples, Naritasan Shinshoji (Chiba, near Narita Airport — very convenient if you’re just arriving) and Kawasaki Daishi (Kanagawa), were the top three in that 2019 ranking. All three are worth visiting if you’re in the Tokyo area.
- Don’t miss the amazake — Yatai food stalls line the paths to major shrines during hatsumode: takoyaki, yakitori, taiyaki, grilled mochi, and — most importantly — amazake, a hot, sweet, lightly fermented rice drink served in paper cups. It’s the perfect thing to warm your hands on a freezing January morning. Some shrines hand it out free during hatsumode.
- Ema and omamori — Hatsumode is the ideal time to buy an ema (wooden wish plaque) or an omamori (protective charm). Some shrines offer New Year-only charms and lucky items, often featuring that year’s zodiac animal. They make beautiful souvenirs.
- Fresh omikuji, fresh year — Drawing an omikuji during hatsumode feels especially meaningful because it’s your first fortune of the new year.
Quick check
Three quick questions to make sure the hatsumode rituals are locked in.