What hatsumode actually is
Hatsumode (初詣) is the first shrine or temple visit of the New Year — and in Japan, it’s enormous. Roughly 100 million shrine and temple visits are recorded during the first three days of January — one of the largest ritual gatherings in the world. Families dress up, often in kimono or hakama. Children come with parents and grandparents. Couples meet there on dates. Everyone prays for health, happiness, safe travels, good grades, love, or whatever else the new year might hold.
If you’re in Japan in early January, hatsumode is one of the most beautiful things you can witness. The air is cold, the shrines are decorated with pine and bamboo New Year arrangements (kadomatsu), yatai food stalls line the approach paths, and everywhere there’s the sound of clapping hands, ringing shrine bells, and cheerful chatter. It has the feel of a national festival because that’s essentially what it is.
The good news for visitors: hatsumode is welcoming. You don’t need to be Shinto or Buddhist or anything at all. The rituals are simple once you know the sequence, and nobody minds if a tourist wants to join in — locals are generally delighted to see foreigners participating thoughtfully. The only thing that turns an awkward hatsumode into a meaningful one is knowing the basic flow: purify at the temizuya, offer at the saisen-bako, pray with the bow-clap-bow sequence, and maybe draw an omikuji on the way out.
Short version: wash your hands, toss a 5 yen coin, bow twice, clap twice, make your wish, bow once more.
A few “nice to know” extras
- 100 million visits in three days — Around 100 million shrine and temple visits are counted over January 1st–3rd (aggregate visits, not unique individuals — many people visit more than one). Meiji Shrine alone draws around 3 million visitors in those three days, making it the single most-visited shrine in the country for New Year.
- The famous top three — Meiji Shrine (Tokyo), Naritasan Shinshoji (Chiba, near Narita Airport — very convenient if you’re just arriving), and Kawasaki Daishi (Kanagawa) are traditionally ranked as Japan’s biggest hatsumode spots. All three are worth visiting if you’re in the Tokyo area.
- Don’t miss the amazake — Yatai food stalls line the paths to major shrines during hatsumode: takoyaki, yakitori, taiyaki, grilled mochi, and — most importantly — amazake, a hot, sweet, lightly fermented rice drink served in paper cups. It’s the perfect thing to warm your hands on a freezing January morning. Many shrines give it out free during hatsumode.
- Ema and omamori — Hatsumode is the ideal time to buy an ema (wooden wish plaque) or an omamori (protective charm). Shrines release special New Year omamori that are only available in the first weeks of January, often featuring that year’s zodiac animal. They make beautiful souvenirs and are considered auspicious to buy at the start of the year.
- Fresh omikuji, fresh year — Shrines take down the previous year’s omikuji rack and replace it with new paper fortunes on January 1st. Drawing an omikuji during hatsumode feels especially meaningful because you’re pulling the very first fortunes of the new year.
Quick check
Three quick questions to make sure the hatsumode rituals are locked in.